Monday, April 05, 2010

Easter Monday - Pangboche


My right hand is a bit stiff. I walk. Most of the morning I am feeling weak, not capable. We have covered a lot of ground. One step at a time. There is less traffic now, and we move out of the trees after lunch. Basu is leading. He sings a never-ending song, in front of me. He points out another trail, says, "That's the Everest circuit". I say, "Next time." He turns to look at me and says, "Really, next time?" "Yes", I say.

Last night it was very dark and I felt some, I think, altitude-induced confusion. I hope tonight will be better.

I'm looking forward to my dinner. I am a stomach with legs. I think the food is awesome, lots of vegetables and rice, pasta, potatoes - I especially like all the different 'pizza' they produce, with tuna on it, yak cheese, spinach. It's oatmeal for breakfast every morning, which makes the others groan but that's what I eat at home every morning anyway. In some ways I think I'm not feeling anywhere near as deprived and uncomfortable as the others - I'm used to there being limited water, no fast food, no coffee shops. I'm accustomed to cold and sleeping out, I don't need poles to walk because I'm not finding the walking difficult. In fact, with little stores selling chocolate and candies along the trail, stops at tea houses serving tea, someone cooking for me, I'm perfectly content.

I'm glad I waited until now to come here. I am a grownup and my epiphanies are natural - not forced. If I had come when I was reading about Buddhism, I think it would have interfered.

"I feel I stepped out of the wilderness, all squint-eyed and confused, but even babies raised by wolves they know exactly when they've been used."

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